Most spiders enter structures from openings large enough in windows or at doors which allow them to just walk right in. These opening do not only allow the spiders in, but a variety of other pest also. A direct spray to the spider is most effective while general spraying inside will do little if any good. Inexpensive glue traps are effective folded into a tunnel trap placed along walls out of sight. Not only will they catch spiders, but, a wide variety of pest which enter doors that do not seal tightly. Remember, if you can see under or at bottom sides of doors, the pest can feel the temperature difference and the flow of warmer or colder air also.
BLACK WIDOW SPIDERS
Black widow spiders do not like inner city areas with frequent mowing or any equipment with frequent vibrations. They are most often found in areas by fields and inside houses from new construction only. Otherwise, the only interior places normally found would be by areas with openings to the outside such as metal buildings which are not tightly sealed, sheds, or just inside garage doors.
More commonly, they are found around exterior areas around homes and fences in rural or under developed neighborhoods. They will build a web inside or under anything which will provide them shelter from the hot sun or bad weather.
A web for a Black Widow is very un-organized looking but very strong. Pulling on strands of the web, the strands are strong and you can hear them snap as they break. Chances are, the large female is close by in a tight corner within the web. They are normally not aggressive and most people get bitten accidentally.
BROWN RECLUSE SPIDERS
Like the Black Widow spiders they do not like inner city areas with frequent mowing. They are most often are found in areas by fields or wooded areas. Unlike the Black Widow they are happy to live in any quite area within a home. In the garage behind some boards or a storage closet will suit them just fine. In attics, the Brown Recluse likes the areas under and around rolled insulation. Another common place within the home is the water heater closet. Most active at night, they will travel along baseboards in search of other small insects to feed upon. Fold up glue boards can be very effective placed along baseboards, in closets, behind furniture, and especially by beds and night stands. Most people are bitten while in bed.
Most ants are sweet eaters and can be baited for by you the home owner. A good bait for sweet eaters is (Terro Ant Killer) found in home improvement or hardware stores. Follow label directions on the box.
Hint: you may want to use tin foil or flat plastic to place bait on, the cardboard bait squares on the boxes tend to soak up the bait before the ants can take it.
Keep in mind, you do not want to use sprays or chemicals around interior ants you are trying to eliminate by baiting as these are repellents and will redirect ants to just take a different route through walls to alternate food sources. Some solid bait stations may also be effective but you may spend more money and time trying to match the ant to the type of bait they will accept. Fire Ants are not sweet eating ants for the most part and will not take (Terro Ant Killer) in large enough quantities to eliminate the colony.
Fire Ants and Carpenter Ants are best left to the professional to treat if already inside your home or business. Both of these pest will invade most of the structure and you may end up spending more time and money trying to eliminate yourself. Also, in most cases, you may promote the problem and be counter productive to a pest control professional. To help prevent Carpenter Ants as well as many other types of ants, you will need to eliminate trees and bushes from touching the structure.
Fire Ants can deliver a powerful little sting. Most people think that the ant is biting them. In a way, they also do bite you but that is not what you feel. They use their mandibles to grip you in order to leverage themselves to insert a stinger like a wasp has. There is a delayed reaction from the time your stung before you feel the sting which give time for a lot more ants to get on you and deliver a sting before you realize they are on you.
When they get in a home, they will travel all through the structure in search of food. The home owner especially needs to be aware that these ants will sometime be attracted to clothes (dirty or clean hanging) and may be in them when you get dressed. Also, they find there way into beds at night. This is very dangerous to infants and the elderly because caretakers may not be aware of what is causing discomfort to there fellow household members.
You the home owner can trap mice just as good as the professional can. The simple mouse snap trap with the small trigger will work just fine. We suggest baiting with a chocolate caramel candy. Mice will often get into a cocoa product as a first choice, not cheese. Some hardware stores may also have traps which are enclosed so you do not have to see the critter when caught. We suggest you do not use poisons when pest is inside a structure as you may end up with the dead odor if you can not find the mouse or get to it. If poisons are used, be careful to make sure non-target pets, animals, and most important, children can not get to the poison bait. You may have to locate the entry point of mice and seal it to prevent future problems.
Best left to the professional. Rats are somewhat intelligent and if you make mistakes in trapping, they may remember and may never go to a trap again. We strongly suggest you do not use poisons on rodents inside structures unless everyone is prepared to deal with the odor if dead rodents which can not be located or reached. There is no bait which does not make the dead not smell. Rats die where the get sick which is normally close to home. Just like you, they do not want to go anywhere when they feel ill. Rats roam a large area of around 100 yards, so don’t think yours is the only house they visit. Sometimes they get sick elsewhere or sometimes they die on top of your attic insulation which stops the smell just like the heat and cold. Believe me, there is not many things that smell worse than death. Hint: If you do not find the entry points the rats use to get into a structure, odds are you will be dealing with the same problem in a year or two again.
Do not seal in live animals that you think you will trap. The animal is interested in primarily one thing first which is not food, water, or shelter. That one thing is how to get back out, unless it already gets all of the other three things inside already. Animals will take the easiest way out they can and sometimes that is through the ceiling down into your building.
Rats and some other animals tend to be gnawers. They will chew on almost anything to wear down their teeth. Almost every structure has electrical wiring running through the attic or walls which may get chewed on which could cause a fire. This is the primary reason not to ignore animal activity in your structure. Secondly, rats need water. They will chew thru PVC A/C or any lines which condense moisture on them in search of water during dry times.
The best way to prevent rat and other larger animals from getting into your attic is do not let them have access to your roof. Once on the roof, these animals may spot a small opening and chew it into a large enough to enter the structure. Too many times people will have trees or bushes planted too close to a structure. Small trees and bushes look real nice. But, most often these trees and bushes turn out to be much larger over the years hanging and scraping on the structures. This may not only allow rats and other larger animals easy access to your structure, but unless trimmed often, may cause damage to siding and roofs in later years.
Large roaches need a good supply of moisture regularly to survive in most cases. If they are seen frequently (3 to 5 per week) inside your home or business, there is a chance you have a problem with one of the following things. A structural leak from roof. A leak from plumbing or a broken sewer pipe. Or even a floor drain which may have gone dry from lack of use. Water in pee traps of floor drains prevent roaches from entering up from the sewer system. Another possible cause could be that the structure may just have a sprinkler system or is watered frequently and roaches are living in exterior walls and may not have been treated for several years.
Just because your neighbor has termites does not mean you have or are ever going to have termites. But, you can make your home less attractive by making sure your landscape next to your house is done properly. Landscape along your houses should be at least 2 inches below the top of your concrete foundation in order for you or an inspector to see if there are termite mud tubes entering the top of the foundation. If soil or mulch is over the top of the foundation up to the siding or brick, termites could be eating your structure for years undetected. Try not to pile wood, bricks, or anything else along your foundation which would provide shelter for termites from the sun or rain. Try not to place a shed too close to the house which would prevent inspection or treatment should termite be noticed. Finally, Do not have an concrete addition poured next to your house or structure which is higher than the existing foundation. This could allow termites to enter your older structure and prevent any regular inspection.
If concrete slabs or additions must be at an equal or greater height than an existing slab, have the soil pre-treated by a professional for termite prevention prior to the concrete pour.
If you ever discover or suspect you may have termites it is best to be treated by a professional. Most structures do not need the entire building treated to eliminate termites. Spot treatments to plumbing areas affected are sufficient and can save owners of structures at low risk of re-infestation hundreds to thousands of dollars. When ever possible, it is a good idea to treat plumbing areas when remodeling while plumbing areas are still open or before putting down new flooring such as tile or wood. Treatments while a remodel is in the tear down stage is generally always cheaper and should protect you from termites in that spot for several years. Half of all termite activity is found under bath tubs or showers.
With new chemicals which have been developed since the 1990s, there are few structure which require a full treatment. Some companies will not provide a warranty unless you pay to have your entire structure treated. Our company will warranty spot treatments in structures. We have spot treated hundreds of structures which have never experienced any further termite activity since.
Some structures will experience additional termite activity. In the event they do, you can always add another spot treatment area, or, add the rest of the structure to the warranty. Think of it this way, if you have a fender bender in your car, are you going to pay to have the whole car painted, or just the damaged area. Of course, some people do want or may need their whole house treated, but we will let the choice be yours after the risk to benefit inspection and evaluation.